By Mike Sutter | Fed Man Walking | 10.11.11
Gourdough’s rolled out in 2009, the first wave of trailers to gain notoriety for having a crazy signature dish: a doughnut the size of a throw pillow topped with bacon. Not just bacon-flavored icing, but three curled ribbons leading straight to your arteries. Gourdough’s became the trailer movement’s mascot. When people talked about our emerging scene, inevitably the giant bacon doughnut was the jumpoff point. Gourdough’s neighbor, Odd Duck Farm to Trailer, became the other, with grilled quail and Brussels sprouts and rabbit belly on wheels.
That’s a fine doughnut, too, all $5.25 of it. But my new favorite is modeled after banana pudding, smothered with cream filling and sliced banana and vanilla icing, crowned with crushed Nilla wafers. The flavor matches its Southern inspiration like a 1971 Ford F-150; the texture drives it someplace new. At the base is a doughnut more like a yeast roll, risen and flaky under a tawny armor of fried dough. The menu says the Puddin’ ($4.25) is cream-filled, but this one was just topped to fill the hole in the middle. As any connoisseur of jelly doughnuts or eclairs will tell you, there’s a difference.
Gourdough’s wouldn’t be an icon without its savory side, and the Porkey’s ($5.25) wears that salted crown, with Canadian bacon and cream cheese laced with jalapeño jelly. Because the base doughnut isn’t sweet like its glazed little brothers, the Porkey’s is as much a breakfast bowl as a dessert, an inspired melange of the salted, fried, cured and canned arts.
Gourdough’s goes for the weird factor with Blue Balls ($4.25), a collection of fried doughnut holes smothered in blueberry filling and icing the color of a preteen’s pool party cake. Salvador Dali’s favorite snack, melting away into a dream of eating doughnuts from a trailer at 2 a.m.
UPDATE: The trailer has moved from South Lamar to 1503 S. First St. www.gourdoughs.com.
Hours (updated July 2012): 7 a.m. to midnight Monday-Thursday. 7 a.m. to 3 a.m. Friday. 8 a.m. to 3 a.m. Saturday. 8 a.m. to midnight Sunday.
(Photos by Mike Sutter © Fed Man Walking)