San Antonio review: Restaurant Gwendolyn

 
 
By Mike Sutter | Fed Man Walking | 10.27.16
 
Restaurant Gwendolyn is like that pretentious friend who only listens to vinyl because he says digital sucks all the warmth out of the room.
 
In chef Michael Sohocki’s kitchen, there are no fancy electrical gadgets, no deep fryers, no Sysco trucks. His Restaurant Gwendolyn is devoted to the art and artifice of partying like it’s 1849, before kitchen tech came along and ruined everything.
 
But maybe we should listen to that guy, because the pops and clicks are what make Gwendolyn rock. From the shabby-chic 12-table space overlooking the River Walk to the flame-powered glass siphon coffee service, Gwendolyn understands the four pillars of a righteous restaurant experience: Escape, comfort, congeniality, restoration.
 
Gwendolyn is my latest review as the new restaurant critic for the San Antonio Express-News. The best way to get the full review? Read it on the Express-News’ lean, elegant premium siteExpressNews.com. For a synopsis and a photo gallery, follow this link at the paper’s free site, mysanantonio.com.
 
 
(Photos by Mike Sutter © Express-News and Fed Man Walking)