Novemburger: The Stallion Grill

Because 50 Burgers, 50 Days wasn’t enough, I’ll write about a new burger every day this month. And next. We’ll call that Decemburger.
Day 11: The Stallion Grill
5201 Airport Blvd. 380-9433,
Hours: 6 a.m. to 8 p.m. daily.
By Mike Sutter | Fed Man Walking | 11.11.11
JANUARY 2014 UPDATE: The Stallion has closed.
You want a Wall Street lunch? Move along, Mr. One Percent. This is where the other 99 percent goes for chicken-fried steak and stuffed cabbage and beef tips. They refill your tea and the wi-fi’s free, so you can organize your mob on Twitter. Occupy the Stallion.
The burger: This tastes like a weekend cookout burger. A half-pound of beef, formed by hand like the Stallion’s meatloaf special, then bricked on a fire-fed grill grate. It’s fatty and juicy inside and crusted ebony on the outside. The bun gets the same time on the flat-top a piece of French toast might. It crackles until the mustard and meat flow, but it adds more to this half-pound burger than just handles. It’s a hard-working burger for those rare days when smothered pork chops or turkey and dressing won’t do the job. Prices break down like this: half-pound burger, $5.75. Plus cheese 50 cents. As a combo with a side and tea, add $2.25.
Fries or rings? Go ahead, get either one. They’re fine, depending on what kind of shape the fryer oil’s in. But let the Stallion be the Stallion and pick your sides ($1.99) from a steam table of Southern-style vegetables: greens, black-eyed peas, glazed carrots, mac and cheese. Two of my favorites are candied sweet potatoes and stewed cabbage. Count the sweet potatoes as starch and dessert, a chunky pie without crust but with all the guilty pleasure.
(Photos by Mike Sutter © Fed Man Walking)