Novemburger: Sandeez Hamburger Hut

 
Because 50 Burgers, 50 Days wasn’t enough, I’ll write about a new burger every day this month. And next. We’ll call that Decemburger.
 
Day 12: Sandeez Hamburger Hut
113 RM 620 N., Lakeway. 266-1524.
Hours: 7 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday-Saturday. 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. Sunday.
 
By Mike Sutter | Fed Man Walking | 11.12.11
 
The first thing I asked at Sandeez — or Sandy’s; the signs argue it both ways — was whether this place has any connection to the Sandy’s Frozen Custard on Barton Springs Road. No, the lady at the counter said, with an eye roll that suggested she gets that question all the time.
 
No, this isn’t a frozen custard stand with walk-up traffic from Barton Springs Pool. It’s a low roadside burger shack that caters to Lakeway and the people coming home from or going to Lake Travis. An old Coke sign swinging above a courtyard in front set with white rocks and picnic tables suggests some history in this spot, the same way bumper stickers and posters inside also present a timeline of sorts: Kinky for Governor, Shut Up and Fish, detailed amoebic maps of Lake Travis and a photo of Stevie Ray Vaughan, signed to Sandy.
 
The burger: A large burger at Sandeez means a quarter-pound of beef, and a large with cheese and jalapeños runs $4.75, on the high side for what amounts to a completely ordinary assembly of flat-top meat, starchy picnic bun and shredded lettuce. No complaints, really, but no real motivation to seek it out either. Except that until P. Terry’s opened in Lakeway, your other options might have been Chili’s or Whataburger or Sonic, and at least this wood-paneled cafe is local, and you can get a Shiner Bock with lunch.
 
Fries or rings? A neon sign says “hand-cut fries,” but that’s not always a sign of approval. The potato flavor was there, thanks to the skins, but they were soft and limp even when they came fresh to the table ($1.75/small). The onion rings didn’t work out much better, with a uniform plate armor that was crunchy and hot but whose starchy overkill swamped the onions ($2.50/small).
 
(Photos by Mike Sutter © Fed Man Walking)