I Can Eat 50 Eggs: The ZubikHouse
In honor of Paul Newman and “Cool Hand Luke,” I’ll review 50 days of eggs from 50 different restaurants.
Day 21: The ZubikHouse
A trailer at 1906 S. First St. 751-1989, www.thezubikhouse.com.
Hours: Downtown Farmers’ Market at Fourth and Guadalupe streets on Saturdays, 9 a.m. to 1 p.m.
UPDATE: The ZubikHouse trailer is no longer in business.
By Mike Sutter | Fed Man Walking | 01.21.12
The Czech Benedict ($5) was so good we chased it from the Downtown Farmers Market on a Saturday to its roadside home on South First on a Sunday (no longer an option; see update above). It starts with a slice of sweet kolache bread, grilled to a butter-glazed bronze, finished with a fried egg and either pulled pork shoulder or grilled asparagus. Or both, if you ask nicely, and it may or may not cost another dollar.
In a green-grocer’s daze at the farmers market, asparagus called. And it was a paper boat ride to flavors worthy of a white tablecloth. Yolk cascaded down through bright spears of asparagus marked by the grill and by truffle oil, and with the sweet bread and a dash of fresh basil, it was a fresh trio appropriate for its surroundings.
At the trailer the next day, a Czech Benedict with pork and asparagus made this a dish you’d drive to the country for, with the kind of juicy, smoke-infused barbecue small-town legends are built on. But the trailer is a much shorter drive, right next to La Mexicana bakery in South Austin. One thing South Austinites appreciate is a backyard egg, and the ZubikHouse gets theirs from fellow farm marketeer Smith & Smith. The Czech Benedict was more rustic on the streets, without truffle oil or basil, elements that might seem out of their element for a late breakfast standing at the lacquered cable spools that rest like table sculptures behind the trailer.
(Photos by Mike Sutter © Fed Man Walking)
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