I Can Eat 50 Eggs: Tomodachi Sushi

 
In honor of Paul Newman and “Cool Hand Luke,” I’ll review 50 days of eggs from 50 different restaurants.
 
Day 37: Tomodachi Sushi
4101 W. Parmer Lane, Suite E. 821-9472, www.tomosushiaustin.com.
Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and 5:30 to 10 p.m. Monday-Friday, Noon to 10 p.m. Saturday. Closed Sunday.
 
By Mike Sutter | Fed Man Walking | 02.06.12
 
Tamago stands among the unsung heroes of the sushi bar. Just because it’s not from the sea, and I call that ... ocean-ism. Tamago is a layered sweet egg custard, folded in pages as thick as an ancient law book in miniature, its pages splayed over a bookmark of sushi rice, bound with a single band of seaweed. In the pages of that book are arts as hard to master as making proper rice and slicing fish. At Tomo, the tamago ($3.50 for two pieces) is like dessert, as delicately flavored as flan, moist to the touch but not sticky. It’s like the heart of an omelette, untouched by the hard labors of the pan, cooled to a state of grace.
 
Another branch of the sushi arts brings together land and sea in a cylinder of seaweed layered with rice, popping-fresh orange salmon eggs, and a quail egg with its dollhouse yolk. The salmon-egg nigiri by itself is $4.50 for two pieces, and the quail eggs add another $2. It’s an indulgence the salmon eggs don’t need to amplify their richness. But this isn’t about need; it’s about desire. And the eggs bring another layer of protein vitality, set off well by the salty brine of the roe.
 
Eggs three ways in a classic sushi bar with bare brick, modern canvases and a main counter set with river rocks frozen in lucite. It’s surprising where the egg can take you in 50 days.
 
(Photos by Mike Sutter © Fed Man Walking)
 
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