I Can Eat 50 Eggs: Sweetish Hill

In honor of Paul Newman and “Cool Hand Luke,” I’ll review 50 days of eggs from 50 different restaurants.
Day 45: Sweetish Hill
1120 W. Sixth St. 472-1347, www.sweetishhill.com.
Hours: 6:30 a.m. to 7 p.m. Monday-Saturday. 6:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Sunday. Breakfast served 7-10:30 a.m. Monday-Friday, 7:30 a.m. to noon Saturday-Sunday.
By Mike Sutter | Fed Man Walking | 02.14.12
Sweetish Hill is a place where you think newspapers might still make it, where the Sports section and the pop-and-fold method are still in play, where people actually stop at the three vending racks and drop in their coins before they go inside. It’s part of the sidewalk theater of life. Stage left, I see the bakers at work behind a tall glass window. At stage right, a sharp-dressed power couple shares coffee and a conversation that looks more interesting than yours. A guy in kitchen clogs does a quick pass in front, carrying big sacks of baguettes to his car. It’s “Our Town,” all set at the neighborhood bakery.
In real life, the bakery runs out of things, and the laws of supply and demand tell me that Sweetish Hill makes a quiche that tests that law every day. They were out on my first try, and only mushroom and spinach were left on a second try. For $3.25, you get your own pie. Granted, it’s only 3 inches across, about the size of a biscuit. Think of it less like a breakfast dish and more like a bear claw or a danish, because it’s gone just as fast. But in that flash you’ll get a crust as flaky and layered as a croissant, delicate but sturdy enough to hold a few tablespoons of egg and cheese baked just until set. The spinach is more than decoration, and the mushroom presents a hint of earth before it gets out of the way. Even at room temperature with a cup of Anderson’s coffee ($1.85/small), these petite quiches are more than breakfast props. They’re slices of life.
(Photos by Mike Sutter © Fed Man Walking)
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