I Can Eat 50 Eggs: Satay

In honor of Paul Newman and “Cool Hand Luke,” I’ll review 50 days of eggs from 50 different restaurants.
Day 42: Satay
3202 W. Anderson Lane, Suite 205. 467-6731, www.satayusa.com.
Hours: 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Sunday-Thursday. 11 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. Friday-Saturday.
By Mike Sutter | Fed Man Walking | 02.11.12
First things first: The mystery of Get Sum Dim Sum is solved for now. An offshoot of Foo Swasdee’s Thai restaurant Satay, Get Sum Dim Sum closed in December, with a promise on Twitter that they’d find a new home. That new home will be Satay, at least on Saturdays and Sundays from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. starting today (Feb. 11).
Onward. My target at Satay wasn’t a Thai dish specifically, but a dish called nasi goreng from the sprawling archipelago of nearby Indonesia. At lunch, nasi goreng is $8.95 and comes with a sweet-and-sour cup of clear tom yum gai soup with chicken and trumpet mushrooms. At dinner, the soup goes away and the price goes to $11.95.
At its heart, nasi goreng is fried rice, but what gives it soul is the caravan of spice and protein that comes with it. At Satay, the rice gets a dash of coriander and cumin seeds for floral and earthy sentiments. Next comes a fan of firm, pink boiled shrimp and a chicken leg baked with the Indian Ocean verve of yellow curry. And finally, it’s crowned with a fried egg with the yolk hovering in a liquid-solid balance for you to fold into the gathering discussion. Satay finishes its nasi goreng with puffy crisps of rice with a hint of shrimp, plus a spicy-brown sauce like sweet barbecue, one to use sparingly, if at all. Too much and you’ll miss the quiet conversation of nasi goreng’s family table.
(Photos by Mike Sutter © Fed Man Walking)
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