I Can Eat 50 Eggs: Lucy's Fried Chicken

“Cool Hand Luke” is the crown prince of prison cinema, a tour de force for Paul Newman, Southern sweat, a night in the box and nothing better to do. And boiled eggs. When Luke announces, “I can eat 50 eggs,” the bunkhouse gamblers come alive. I’ll take a piece of that action. For the next 50 days, I’ll eat something with an egg from 50 different restaurants. Breakfast tacos, deviled eggs, egg salad, omelettes and a white-and-yellow rainbow of unexpected egg dishes. Why? Because the egg is where real cooking begins, and like Luke says: “Yeah, well. It’ll be something to do.”
Day 1: Lucy’s Fried Chicken
2218 College Ave. 297-2423, www.lucysfriedchicken.com.
Hours: 11 a.m. to midnight daily.
By Mike Sutter | Fed Man Walking | 01.01.12
It’s a which-came-first question at Lucy’s Fried Chicken. A philosophical dilemma. Put deep-fried deviled eggs next to a basket of Lucy’s knobby fried chicken and the answer shines apparent: The two sprang from the fryer at the same, with shells like the earth from which they came, transformed by alchemy and oil into golden flake. Freshman philosophy has no place at the dinner table, fool.
That doesn’t mean Lucy’s won’t try to mess with your head a little. The whole concept is a wink and a nod from Olivia chef and owner James Holmes, a downscaled after-party from his high-style bistro on South Lamar. Lucy’s opened Dec. 16 in the former home of Nueva Onda, replacing Tex-Mex with fried chicken and wood-grilled oysters, plus a full bar and Southern-style pies.
And deep-fried deviled eggs ($4.25). They come three to an order, and their battered shells thump and crunch as if the boiled eggs had dreams of becoming skin-on fried chicken one day. The shell cradles a creamy yolk with more than the obligatory picnic-table dusting of paprika. Fifty of these would run you $70.83. Babalugats, we got a bet here.
(Photos by Mike Sutter Fed Man Walking)
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