I Can Eat 50 Eggs: Lick Honest Ice Creams

In honor of Paul Newman and “Cool Hand Luke,” I’ll review 50 days of eggs from 50 different restaurants.
Day 20: Lick Honest Ice Creams
2032 S. Lamar Blvd. 363-5622, www.ilikelick.com.
Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday-Thursday. 11:30 a.m. to 11:30 p.m. Friday-Saturday.
By Mike Sutter | Fed Man Walking | 01.20.12
Every batch of the spiked eggnog ice cream at Lick Honest Ice Creams is made with eight yolks from local organic Vital Farm Eggs. And a shot of brandy. It makes for a warm nutmeg and alcohol shiver finish to a three-course meal of sorts, made from three scoops of ice cream ($4.19) for a vegetarian tasting both savory and sweet.
The first course is a pale yellow scoop made from caramelized carrots and the licorice promise of tarragon. It comes across with just enough root vegetable to make it seem righteous in the way carrot cake does, with the sweet cream providing the icing. Cake for an appetizer? Why not? The flavors become more intense as the ice cream starts to melt.
If the first course suggests a root vegetable, the second course shouts it from the soiltops with a brilliant red scoop of ice cream made from roasted beets and the herbal signature of whole-leaf mint.
The third and final scoop, eggnog and brandy, is a fitting toast to this new shop, where Anthony Sobotik has been crafting fresh ice cream since Oct. 19. He worked on the ice creams for a year, but worked as a baker before that and a caterer before then. He’s the kind of guy who looks at a few hundred acres of vegetables at Johnson’s Backyard Garden farm and wonders what kind of ice cream he can make. Beets for example, which Sobotik likes for their deep color, natural sweetness and long growing season. Johnson’s is just one of several local suppliers of raw materials. Others include Round Rock Honey, Pure Luck Dairy, Salt and Time, even Pecan Street rum. Organic milk and cream come from Texas Daily Harvest. Even the sugar’s from Texas.
Of course, it makes perfect sense to park a small-batch craft ice cream shop next to the Horseshoe Lounge, doesn’t it? “Being next to the Horseshoe was kind of a bonus. They’re excellent neighbors,” Sobotik said. The location suited his desire to be near a neighborhood where people could walk to the shop for one of his 18-20 flavors, ranging from cayenne hot chocolate to breakfast bacon to cilantro-lime and one with goat cheese, thyme and honey. He’s also getting walk-over traffic from nearby El Meson and Barley Swine customers, but Sobotik said the shop is starting to draw destination traffic of its own. Right now, eggnog is the only ice cream at Lick that uses eggs. Sobotik likes to let the other flavors and textures do most of the work. Get it while it lasts.
(Photos by Mike Sutter © Fed Man Walking)
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