I Can Eat 50 Eggs: Gourmands
In honor of Paul Newman and “Cool Hand Luke,” I’ll review 50 days of eggs from 50 different restaurants.
Day 12: Gourmands
2316 Webberville Road. 610, www.lovethysandwich.com.
Hours: 11 a.m. to 2 a.m. daily. Kitchen open until 11 p.m.
By Mike Sutter | Fed Man Walking | 01.12.12
Gourmands understands “Cool Hand Luke” and its eternal Southern bond with the boiled egg. I imagine that scene with George Kennedy moving Paul Newman’s jaws up and down to get those last few eggs “down to the tummy” ran through their minds when they named their egg salad sandwich the Cool Hand Luke ($6.50). And I’ll guess that in a bar where you’ve been able to buy your beer by the 32-ounce schooner from 11 a.m. to last call every night since it opened Oct. 28, Gourmands also appreciates the restorative properties of egg salad and bread, especially wheat bread cut in thick mess-hall slices and toasted to handle the load.
The egg salad’s an easy mix ruled by mayonnaise and mixed up choppy and loose. It’s a canvas for the other flavors to graffiti. On the basic level, that means shredded lettuce and tomato. But Gourmands stretches out with a tangle of sweet caramelized onions served at room temperature, a garnish for which you’ll have to recalibrate the expectations you’ve formed after years of eating it hot with burgers and steaks. Here, it’s like an unrealized onion jam or an over-realized sweet pickle.
Speaking of pickles, here’s how to make those onions and this sandwich work for you: take that little pile of housemade pickles that comes alongside the sandwich and pile them on. The sweet-sour-crunch trifecta of onions, carrots and cucumbers launches that egg salad into places you never expected egg salad to go. A twangy place that matches the low-brow black-and-white tiles, the homemade potato chips, the Creedence on the jukebox and the racket of the Pac-Man table in the corner.
(Photos by Mike Sutter © Fed Man Walking)
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