I Can Eat 50 Eggs: Garrido's

 
In honor of Paul Newman and “Cool Hand Luke,” I’ll review 50 days of eggs from 50 different restaurants.
 
Day 14: Garrido’s
360 Nueces St. 320-8226, www.garridosaustin.com.
Hours: 4 to 10 p.m. Monday. 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Tuesday-Thursday. 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday-Saturday. 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday. Brunch is served 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Saturday-Sunday.
 
By Mike Sutter | Fed Man Walking | 01.14.12
 
When “Mozart eggs” are on the brunch menu, you have to ask. The waitress told me they come “from a lady who plays Mozart for her chickens. She feeds them flax-seed. She just really loves her chickens.” At $1.50 apiece extra, they’re worth it for the back story and the deep golden yolk, and they’re so much better than those LMFAO eggs. (Ask your kids to explain that one.)
 
Those classically trained eggs crown one of my favorite breakfast dishes: chilaquiles. They’re tortilla chips that have been drowned and softened in salsa and cheese and baked until the chips are crisp all over again. During brunch at David Garrido’s restaurant, they’re more than that, of course, with creamy tomatillo salsa, shaved carrots, tomatoes, sour cream, spinach, bacon and eggs. Whether you get regular or classically trained eggs, ask for them over-easy so the yolks can infiltrate the whole plate. The already generous $7 dish is finished with dense refried black beans and a cup of fruit.
 
Chilaquiles are best when they’re soft in the middle and crisp at the edges like this, a feat made possible by thick corn tortillas fresh out of the fryer. As the eggs marry with the green salsa and corn, the flavor is it once tart and earthy, so rich it demands some heat to cut through the shimmer, a job accomplished by a blazing table salsa the color of a desert sunset.
 
The kitchen forgot the bacon, but the waitress brought a separate plate, a photo of which I’ve included to show how hard they worked making up for the oversight. It tasted every bit as smoky, crisp and decadently salty as the glamour shot suggests. The main photo also shows rice, something the kitchen added by accident.
 
I know we’re focusing on eggs here, but hot cinnamon cafe de olla ($2.50) is a deal-maker. If alcohol is a better weekend solution, I’ve had the all-weather Paloma here ($7), with tequila to keep you warm and Mexican Fresca to cool you down. But the Mexican martini is trending as Austin’s unofficial drink while we take a break between beers and margaritas. For $9 at Garrido’s, you get Patron Silver, Patron Citronage, lime and orange juices and the all-important jalapeño-stuffed olive and the juice to go with it. You’ll taste it all once the sting wears off, a refreshing change from the syrupy–sweet cocktail shakers whose super-sized volume probably explains the Mexican martini explosion more than anything else.
 
(Photos by Mike Sutter © Fed Man Walking) 
 
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