I Can Eat 50 Eggs: Baguette et Chocolat

 
In honor of Paul Newman and “Cool Hand Luke,” I’ll review 50 days of eggs from 50 different restaurants.
 
Day 29: Baguette et Chocolat
12101 Bee Cave Road (FM 2244). 263-8388, www.baguetteetchocolat.com.
Hours: 7 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. Tuesday-Friday. 7 a.m. to 4 p.m. Saturday. 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. Sunday. Closed Monday.
 
By Mike Sutter | Fed Man Walking | 01.29.12
 
A croissant this good can forgive a lot of things. At table height, its aroma rises like toasted butter, and its storefront window of a crackled suntan and the twirled layers within live up to that honeyed promise. It sheds like a bag of chips on fresh sheets, but there’s tensile strength in the bread, and for $2.39 and a cup of coffee, your breakfast at Baguette et Chocolat could end right there.
 
But like I did for Bastille Day in a 2010 Statesman review, I reached out to the savory side of the menu, but this time to fill my daily egg quota. I filled it with a Crepe Campagnarde, a country-style dish that starts with a crepe that looks like a buckwheat pancake with the air vacuum-sealed away for easier flat storage. I kid because I like. It’s cooked right along the elastic sweet spot, then folded into a neat napkin square over a regime of rough-cut red onions, mushrooms and bacon. A hard-cooked egg insinuates itself into every bite, having woven itself into the fabric of the crepe. An even layer of sour cream breathes life into mushrooms with a tinny, saline resilience.
 
At a reasonable $6.99, the crepe is plated with a salad made from the iceberg lettuce that good salad restaurants discard, full of ribs and wan green fadeouts, with a sweet-tart dressing too good for leaves like this. But not too good to drag that croissant straight through.
 
An insider’s note: This is one of those places with a supply-and-demand balance that can leave the bakery case empty long before you get there. On the weekends, get there early and be prepared to wait in line.
 
(Photos by Mike Sutter © Fed Man Walking)
 
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