Decemburger: J&J Barbeque & Burgers

 
First came 50 Burgers, 50 Days. Then Novemburger. 2011 wraps up with a burger a day for Decemburger.
 
Day 5: J&J Barbeque & Burgers
300 W. Whitestone Blvd., Cedar Park. 512-918-0314, www.jj-bbq.com.
Hours: 5:30 a.m. to 8 p.m. Monday-Thursday. 5:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Friday-Saturday. 7 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday.
 
By Mike Sutter | Fed Man Walking | 12.05.11
 
The burger: If cows laid eggs, this is what they’d look like. When the Cheddar Pour burger comes together on the grill, it looks like a giant fried egg with hamburger where the yolk should be and a bubbling lunar landscape of cheese where the white would spread out. It’s $6.68 for the half-pound size, starting with fresh beef the cook frames by hand.
 
The cheese goes on at the last minute, dropped in a shredded double handful. Like an orange velvet shroud, it forms a seal over the meat then fans out to form a leatherette halo, crackling at the edges like low-carb cheese snacks. There’s no polite way to eat it unless you cut it into prim sections like a Yankee burrito. One technique: Lift the top bun and fold the cheese a flap at a time like a tablecloth, then imagine chewing through a deflated beachball.
 
Fries or rings? Blinded by the cheeseburger supernova, I can’t rally behind either one. Breaded fries cost $1.79 for a small order, and thin onion rings with a thick, knobby batter are $2.99/small. But this is a barbecue joint, and you should be able to put something together from barbecue’s usual running buddies: slaw, potato salad, beans, mac and cheese and more.
 
(Photos by Mike Sutter © Fed Man Walking)
 
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