Comfort Zone: Hoover’s Cooking

Hoover’s Cooking
2002 Manor Road. 512-479-5006,
Hours: 11am-10pm Mon-Fri. 8am-10pm Sat-Sun.
By Mike Sutter | Fed Man Walking | 03.19.13
Hoover Alexander makes one of the city’s best chicken-fried steaks, with beef the size of a high-five that’s pounded flat, dredged in flour and fried a knobby golden brown before it’s smothered in black pepper cream gravy. For $9.79, it comes with three sides, among them Southern staples like syrupy candied yams, stemmy mustard greens with smoked ham and the aggressive twang of vinegar or a witches’ brew of okra and tomatoes. From that same Southern pantry, Hoover’s also draws fried catfish, barbecued ribs, meatloaf and fried pork chops, along with gumbo in a swampy roux with chicken and coarse, spicy sausage. Plates run $10-$14.
(TOP: Chicken-fried steak with stewed okra, mustard greens and candied yams. ABOVE: Chicken and sausage gumbo. Photos by Mike Sutter © Fed Man Walking)