500 Tacos: Tortas Chilangas Lucy
An Austin taco a day for 2015 — and then some
Tortas Chilangas Lucy
6201 S. Congress Ave., Austin (map), 512-938-2532
Hours: 6am-3pm (sometimes 4-5) Mon-Sat
By Mike Sutter | © Fed Man Walking | 10.24.15
What’s a sandwich trailer doing in a 500 Tacos roundup? It’s proving that in the sprawling Austin taco game, signs are more like suggestions, and at Tortas Chilangas Lucy, the tacos outnumber the tortas 10 to 1.
The taco: Migas
This long-neglected stretch of South Congress has become such a clogged construction zone that a hard-hat breakfast always feels like the right choice. Lucy’s does breakfast from open to close, including this fat, fresh migas taco with bright red tomatoes, grill-softened onions and cilantro scrambled thoroughly into fresh eggs with four-cornered shingles of fried corn tortillas for a crunch like gravel under tires pulling into the lot. ($1.25 before 11; $1.50 after)
► The torta: “Chilanga” is slang for all things Mexico City, and for the trailer’s namesake torta, it means crusty telera bread toasted on the grill and piled with a little of everything: ham, milanesa, chorizo, hot dogs, fried eggs and beans, dressed out with tomato, onions, queso blanco and jalapeños. The breaded beefsteak and salty ballpark weiners do most of the work, but it’s an all-day protein party where everybody makes some noise. ($7)
► Lunch tacos: Mild chorizo gets lost on its way to the campechana taco party with tough, dry bistec. Basic pork al pastor is tender and hot, but only vaguely evokes the style’s adobo personality, leaning mostly on salt, onions and cilantro. ($2 each)
► Papas y huevos: Lucy’s tackles a breakfast taco staple with understated ease, with fresh eggs scrambled hard and diced potatoes cooked soft, with a skin-tight shell just starting to go crunchy. ($1.25 before 11; $1.50 after)
► Tortillas: Basic waxy flour and doubled-up white corn tortillas lightly toasted on the grill.
► Salsa: In this stop and start traffic zone, green means proceed with caution through the intersection of fresh tomatillo and mouth-numbing jalapeño. Oddly, red means go as fast as you can, for a sweet puree of tomato and dried chiles.
The 500 Tacos Project
(Photos by Mike Sutter © Fed Man Walking)