500 Tacos: Taquitos Michoacanos

A taco a day for 2015 — and then some
Taquitos Michoacanos
5402 S. Congress Ave. (map), 512-888-3889. Hours: 6pm-midnight Tue-Sun
By Mike Sutter | © Fed Man Walking | 08.07.15
About the time the fun’s winding down at Miriam’s Partyland next door on South Congress, the tacos are spooling up at Taquitos Michoacanos, one of at least a dozen taquerias sprawling up and down South Congress where it cuts across Highway 71. Order four tacos, and they arrive on on a plastic plate that’s been wrapped in a clear bag like a raincoat, showered with limes, radishes, sliced cucumbers and grilled onions, each taco smothered with chopped onion and cilantro like proper street tacos.
The taco: Tripas con chorizo
Tripas and chorizo make two of the best — or nastiest — tacos in trailer town, depending on whether you get them rubbery and poorly washed or greasy and burnt, respectively. It’s a gamble. Putting both on one taco feels like doubling down. But it pays off at this unassuming trailer, with tripas that are crispy at the edges, tender in the centers and full of charred fat and mystery. That mystery, and its attendant wonder, are amplified by chorizo that’s loose and lean with big herbal spice. They make a great team. ($2.50)
 Suadero: If you see suadero on a taco-truck menu, order it. Unless the idea of fatty nuggets of beef belly like cattle’s answer to bacon doesn’t interest you at all. ($2)
 Carnitas and pastor: The trailer makes a crunchy carnitas taco as sticky with fat as barbacoa and just as lush. The al pastor is chopped and greasy, with sweetness like a pineapple glazed doughnut. ($2 each)
 Tortillas: 3.5-inch white corn tortillas, doubled-up straight from the bag and tearing at any and every stress point
 Salsa: If the taco plate’s wrapped like a raincoat, these three squeeze bottles are salsa dots on the Doppler radar: bright green, vinegary tomatillo; smooth and velvety hot pureed jalapeno; and a dark chile de arbol shooting lightning bolts of spice like burnt ozone.
The 500 Tacos Project
(Photos by Mike Sutter © Fed Man Walking)