500 Tacos: Taqueria Zacazonapan

 
 
A taco a day for 2015 — and then some
 
Taqueria Zacazonapan
8711 N. Lamar Blvd. in the Cricket Wireless lot (map), 512-964-8728
Hours: 5pm-2am Mon-Thu; 5pm-3am Fri-Sun
 
By Mike Sutter | © Fed Man Walking | 07.21.15
 
The thing about trailer tacos this close to North Lamar is that a constant machine roar and an occasional mouthful of exhaust are part of the sensory package. Zacazonapan, named for a village near Mexico City, works through the hazards every night, with clean tables and chairs beneath a string-lit awning, making tacos that are neither the biggest nor the best values on this densely taco-ed stretch of Lamar, but they’re one of the few doing midnight breakfast tacos.
 
The taco: Cecina
In the world of high-fat food writing, cecina’s a welcome walk back to the barricades of reason: beef, sliced thin and more thoroughly trimmed of fat. The grill does the flavor work, laying down a hard sear and complementing that with sweet grilled onions. Like all of Zacazonapan’s little tacos, it’s dressed with those grilled onions, plus slivered radish and chopped cilantro. ($2.50)
 
 Breakfast all night: Hashbrown-cut potatoes lace through eggs and cheese for a small but dense breakfast taco. ($2)
 Pastor and tripas: Fried onions and fresh radish forgive the tough rubbery orange-ness of the pastor, but they can’t compensate for slick and mushy tripas too undercooked to make up for their funky provenance. ($2.50 each)
 Tortillas: Storebought flour and single-layer corn.
 Salsa: A vinegary red with tomatillo and chile de arbol is more complex than a simple trailer like this would suggest, with the same moderate heat as the trailer’s creamy jalapeño green. Both are good.
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The 500 Tacos Project
 
 
(Photos by Mike Sutter © Fed Man Walking)