500 Tacos: Taqueria MX
A taco a day for 2015 — and then some
525 W. Ben White Blvd. at the Shell station (map). 512-803-3064. Hours: 6am-3:30pm Mon-Sat, closed Sun
By Mike Sutter | Fed Man Walking | 01.17.15
This week I paid less for gas station gas than I paid for a gas station taco. Beef fajita on corn: $2. A gallon of regular: $1.79. This avocado green trailer has been sitting next to the Shell station’s abandoned car wash for so long that it’s up on blocks, holding fast while market forces constantly recalculate the nation’s GTI (Gas Taco Index).
The taco: Beef fajita
Restaurant fajitas are a spectacle, attention hogs on iron sizzle platters followed by pico, sour cream, cheese and garnishes in molcajetes like SUVs in a presidential motorcade. Trailer fajitas are the F-150s waiting for that procession to go by. Not as sleek and shiny, but harder-working and less expensive. This trailer lays down the beef like railroad ties in the cargo bed, seared and substantial, with salt, oil, cilantro and onion. The workingman’s caravan. (Meat tacos, including an average adobo-red pastor, are $2. Breakfast tacos are $1.50 — I’d recommend country-style ham and egg on flour.)
► Tortilla: The hands of the abuelita who opened the window still wore masa from the corn tortillas she was making behind her. They’re thick enough to handle the load without having to double up, tougher than average, but with a good, solid corn flavor fully realized by a thorough polka dot charring on the flat-top. The flour tortillas are standard foodservice issue.
► Salsa: If the cool, creamy jalapeño green is unleaded hot, then the angry guajillo chile red is premium hot.
The 500 Tacos Project
(Photos by Mike Sutter © Fed Man Walking)