500 Tacos: Taqueria Lucerito
A taco a day for 2015 — and then some
587 E. Rundberg Lane, Austin (map), 512-659-3683
Hours: 5pm-midnight Sun-Tue and Thu; 5pm-3am Fri-Sat; closed Wed
By Mike Sutter | © Fed Man Walking | 09.05.15
In the taco-rich fields of East Rundberg, Taqueria Lucerito seems just fine with its position in the order of things. No handmade tortillas, no aguas frescas, no breakfast, no special attention to hospitality. Whatever. It’s just one of eight taco trucks in the same quarter-mile. Its position in the order of things on East Rundberg? The bottom quarter.
The taco: Chivo
This isn’t the best goat taco in town. It’s not even the best in this part of town. That honor belongs to Taquito Aviles. But it rises above its humble provenance by being juicy without going full-on greasy, by being long and rangy without being tough, and by wearing its red chile braise like a badge of honor. With fresh onions and cilantro, this is the best taco at Lucerito. ($2.25)
► Suadero: This soft, fatty beef belly with the spice signature of seasoned salt is brought to its full, albeit limited, potential by grilled onions. ($2.25)
► Campechanos: It’s possible for even grilled steak and ground Mexican sausage to take a neutral flavor line right down the middle. This taco is proof of that. ($2.25)
► Pastor: If this is pastor, I’ll have to take your word for it, hidden underneath all this greasy, overcooked, mealy pork. ($2.25)
► Tortillas: Basic flour and doubled-up white corn tortillas from a bag. Because why bother?
► Salsa: Boiling hot boilerplate red and green taco-truck salsas.
(Photos by Mike Sutter © Fed Man Walking)