500 Tacos: Taqueria Los 3 Compadres

 
 
A taco a day for 2015 — and then some
 
Taqueria Los 3 Compadres
At the Shell station at 5300 Burnet Road (map). Hours: 7am-3pm Mon-Sat, closed Sun
 
By Mike Sutter | Fed Man Walking | 01.15.15
 
On a cold, blustery morning, the warm mist rising from a gas-station taco trailer looks like the breath of a living thing. Los 3 Compadres isn’t a destination taco, but that exhaled mist is a beacon for a spontaneous breakfast or lunch during the commute down Burnet Road.
 
The taco: Egg and nopales
There’s an austere beauty to cactus in its prickly solitude that translates well to the stovetop. Stripped of its fangs and cut to ribbons, the hearty succulent fries up like a bell pepper, just as supple but with a neutrality that draws power from whatever it’s sharing the tortilla with. In this case that’s just eggs and salt, but that’s enough. It performs just as well as the trailer’s Mexican-style breakfast taco, with its more aggressive payload of onions, fresh diced jalapeños and tomato. And I’ll take the humble cactus over the al pastor here, a lazy man’s version of chopped pork that tastes like chili powder, oregano and griddle oil. (Breakfast tacos $1.35 before 11 a.m., $1.75 after, or three tacos for $4. Mexican-style taco $1.75. Al pastor taco $1.85.)
 Tortilla: Small, stiff storebought flour warmed only by the eggs.
 Salsa: Smooth jalapeño green with quick, fiery heat and an oddball “red” that’s closer to a generic vinaigrette salad dressing, with a mustard-colored aura and a lip-burning habanero-style afterglow.
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The 500 Tacos Project
 
 
(Photos by Mike Sutter © Fed Man Walking)