500 Tacos: Taqueria Guadalajara

 
 
A taco a day for 2015 — and then some
 
Taqueria Guadalajara
12226 RR 620 (map), 512-219-9222, www.guadalajarataquerias.comHours: 6am-11pm daily
Also at: 9207 N. Lamar Blvd. (map), 512-832-6560
 
By Mike Sutter | © Fed Man Walking | 06.14.15
 
Two of my favorite words in Spanish are, “Mas café?” And those two words, asked over and over, make Taqueria Guadalajara a good place to shelter from Ranch Road 620’s bumper grind in the morning. It’s clean, bright and relaxed, if you can tune out the keening shriek of the Univision morning show. Good migas, good tacos, hot coffee. Two more of my favorite words: "Todo bien?" Si. Si it is.
 
The taco: Migas
A $2 migas taco with beans and fried potatoes is a good deal, and I can build three of them from the migas plate in the morning at Taqueria Guadalajara and still have some left over. We take for granted the simplicity of migas, but consider the layers here: an unseasoned canvas of hard-scrambled eggs, integrated on the grill with a fresh chop of tomatoes, crisp jalapeño and onions, feathered throughout with soft corn tortillas. The whole assembly is topped with white cheese broiled until it melts. The beauty of the breakfast plate is you can build your taco with homefries, too, for starch and salt, plus unifying velvet brown refritos, as good as any hummus or mayo. ($6.99 with beans and potatoes; $5.99 before 11 a.m.)
 
 
 Chicharron and eggs: Because a Fed Man can’t live on migas alone, there’s fried pigskin and scrambled eggs. Tastes better than it sounds; tastes better than it chews. The slick latex bounce of the pork rinds lends the lower, funkier notes of the pig symphony, making them a robust stand-in for salt and pepper in the willowy strata of the eggs. ($1.79; 3 for $3.99 before 11 a.m.)
 Tortillas: Commercial flour tortillas warmed on the flat-top — served three to an order with migas in a red hi-hat warmer — and double-layer storebought white corn.
 Salsa: The table sauce is a medium-heat salsa fresca with white onions and cilantro. On request, they’ll bring squeeze bottles of mild, creamy jalapeño green and a tomatillo and dried chile red salsa that’s as embracingly warm on the finish as it is bright and tangy up front.
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The 500 Tacos Project
 
 
(Photos by Mike Sutter © Fed Man Walking)