500 Tacos: Tacos Deliciosos
A taco a day for 2015 — and then some
1319 Rosewood Ave. (map), 512-552-1200. Hours: 7am-2:30pm Tue-Sun
By Mike Sutter | © Fed Man Walking | 06.11.15
My first trip to this orange and white trailer came by accident, when the neighboring Micklethwait barbecue trailer had sold out. My second and subsequent trips to Tacos Deliciosos? Those weren’t accidents.
The taco: Spicy chicken
The simple gifts of tender white meat chicken are given full voice in this taco with sautéed onions and red and green bell peppers, amplified by generous red chile spice and cracked black peppercorns, which gives this trailer something more than convenience in common with the barbecue guy down the street. Best appreciated — and its oils kept in check — with a fresh flour tortilla. ($3)
► Tortillas: “Tortillas hechas a mano? Maíz y harina? “ Always a good question to ask at a taqueria. “Tortillas made by hand? Corn and flour?” The answer is usually no. Or just one, usually corn. And so I appreciate small operations like this where they fight the good fight and make flour and corn by hand. Even so, Tacos Deliciosos should double its delicate, full-flavored corn tortillas, which fall apart under the steam. The flour tortillas are soft, well-toasted and deceptively strong.
► Fajitas and al pastor: Onions and red and green bell peppers turn a simple beef fajita taco into a stir-fry salty and sweet enough to compensate for beef on the road to being tough. The greasy sheen of al pastor in its foil cocoon didn’t go well for its single-layer corn tortilla. But the felony disarray was pleaded down to a mess-demeanor offense after testimony from grilled onions and a shower of fresh bell pepper, onions and cilantro ($3 each)
► Migas, good and evil: If you’re starting with freshly scrambled eggs and pieces of handmade corn tortilla, I can begin to forgive a migas taco with just those two elements. But forgiveness is a commodity more scarce when — right next to the underachieving migas — is a taco with eggs and sweet sautéed red and green bell peppers for the same price ($2.50). I’d have them join forces: Add peppers to the migas for an extra 50 cents, then add cheese for another 50. At $3.50 in a fresh flour tortilla, that would be a formidable breakfast taco.
► Salsa: The trailer makes salsa from some of the most vicious peppers on earth — Scorpion and Carolina Reaper — if you care to buy a half-pint jar. Their standard red and green salsas are overrun by chili powder and get half their heat from salt’s scaling burn.
► Service note: It was raining hard, again, the day of this report. A man from the trailer, without asking, picked up a table and moved it to the covered porch of the adjoining business. He grabbed a chair and gestured for me to sit. I hadn't told anybody why I was there. This is just what happens at Tacos Deliciosos.
The 500 Tacos Project
(Photos by Mike Sutter © Fed Man Walking)