500 Tacos: Super Burrito

 
 
A taco a day for 2015 — and then some
 
Super Burrito
1800 E. Oltorf St. (map), 512-443-8226, www.ilovesuperburrito.com
Hours: 7am-10pm Mon-Sat, 9am-9pm Sun
 
By Mike Sutter | Fed Man Walking | 01.18.15
 
4/23/15 UPDATE: April 3 is Super Burrito's last day on Oltorf. From Super Burrito's FacebookAs many of you already know our landlord has sold our spot to P. Terry's, which will start construction Monday. We will be open for the last time this Friday April 3rd. We would like to thank all our staff and customers for making these last 8 years possible. We will open regular 7am and close until all our remaining food is depleted. Our location in San Marcos will remain open. Our food truck on 5th street will soon offer delivieries by dine on demand. We are currently in the process of finding a location to replace Oltorf. We are very grateful for all the support the Austin community has given us. Thank you guys. Oltorf will always have a special place in our hearts.
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There’s a thin line between the taco and the burrito. The curve of a smile you get folding a tortilla over on itself. A taco is a ragtop where a burrito is a minivan. In that analogy, a California-style burrito-and-taco shop like Super Burrito would naturally showcase a Volkswagen microbus and a convertible Beetle. I drove a Beetle for 10 years, and it was the worst car I ever owned. Super Burrito’s Baja fish taco is that car incarnate: A micro-fillet of tasteless tilapia in an oily breading with bitter cabbage on foodservice corn tortillas. If this is Baja, I’m no Baja Man. Fortunately for this report, my other California-style taco experiences ran more smoothly.
 
The taco: Tejana
Grilled steak and tender red potatoes with onions and cheese would be at home in a taco, burrito or pita in any state. But the California archetype calls for guacamole, right? Except that the toothpaste squiggle of green stuff on this taco is the evil twin of real guacamole. But sometimes evil is just good working through some issues, and the Tejana has some redemptive qualities — beef with just enough fat to make it interesting, at a good price ($2.15).
 Tortilla: The showcase steak taco would’ve done even better in the toasted flour tortilla that came crackle-wrapped around the migas taco. The doubled-up corn is pale and flavorless. Neither is made in-house.
 Salsa: If these squeeze bottles were part of a West Coast art installation, they’d be genteel watercolors of tomatillo green and dried chile red. Pale, runny renditions of the street graffiti salsas at the best Austin taco galleries.
 
 
 Bonus tacos: Because this is Tex-Mex territory, the all-day menu of breakfast tacos includes migas. Super Burrito stuffs a grilled flour tortilla to bursting with eggs and shredded corn tortillas, then steps things up with crunchy bits of toasted cheese from the grill. But the key is a simmered ranchera sauce that brings slow-cooked tomato sweetness and heat-free pepper spice. Avoid the chalky pollo asado taco, with chicken the color of Funyuns, minus the Fun.
 Orange is the new Oz: With its sticky orange bench-and-table units bolted to the concrete floor and a sliding security-style window cut into the back of the room, Super Burrito’s decor might be called New Correctional.
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The 500 Tacos Project
 
 
(Photos by Mike Sutter © Fed Man Walking)