500 Tacos: The Park at the Domain

 
 
A taco a day for 2015 — and then some
 
The Park at the Domain
11601 Domain Drive (map), 512-478-7275; Also at 4024 S. Lamar Blvd., 512-731-2077; www.thepark.us
Hours: 11am-2am daily
 
By Mike Sutter | Fed Man Walking | 02.01.15
 
The Hot Chick, the Fit Chick, the Fat Chick. Maybe I already knew everything I needed to know about the Park by reading the menu, Bro. But this is a triple-digit taco series, and without the luxury of close curation, I’m left to talk about a Domain sports bar that tags all the bases of a three-beer buzz: fried things, nacho things, wing things, pizza things, burger things, pasta things, steak things. And taco things.
 
The taco: Corn flake chicken tacos
A few more frosted flakes and we could call it a breakfast taco, amiright? Thank you! The Park knows how much its target audience likes it hot, sweet and crunchy. This taco brings all three, with chicken breast dragged through sweetened corn flakes, perfectly fried, then sectioned into a warm tortilla with wet coleslaw and a universal spicy ranch dressing tinted and labeled as “mango-chile” but not especially bonded with either. It’s not bad, as far as bar food goes. Like a bowl of cereal in front of the game at home, if home had sports projected on a circular lampshade screen in the middle of the dining room and playing on a flat-screen in the bathroom. But this is a taco in the same way flatbread is a pizza: just something to hang a label on. ($11 for two tacos with stiff Spanish rice and pinto beans with a thick, savory liquor full of tomatoes, onions and sausage.)
 
 Tortilla: Thin and stiff store-grade flour tortillas.
 Salsa: The mango-chile counts as a salsa, of sorts. But if you want the Park’s cool, garlicky, medium-hot red salsa, you’ll have to ask for it.
 Not a taco: The Park lays out nine burgers, each with its own claim to the litany of sports bar “... things.” Fried pickles, tortilla strips, onion rings, Swiss and ‘shrooms. “El Juanita” promised sautéed jalapeños, chipotle mayo and habanero jack cheese. It delivered on the sharp, hot cheese and an appropriately smoky variation on Thousand Island. But there were, and I counted, five jalapeño slices. Which I understand, what with the jalapeño shortage and all. In greater number, they might have camouflaged ground beef cooked to a Goodyear bounce on a thick kolache-style sweet bun with “The Park” branded into the top. Probably a tribute to the patio view of ... parking garages. ($11 with seasoned battered fries)
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The 500 Tacos Project
 
 
(Photos by Mike Sutter © Fed Man Walking)