500 Tacos: La Gordita Loca

 
 
A taco a day for 2015 — and then some
 
La Gordita Loca
7545 N. Lamar Blvd. next to Lamar Corner Store (map), 512-775-0900, Facebook page
Hours: 7am-10pm Mon-Fri; 8am-10pm Sat; closed Sun
 
By Mike Sutter | © Fed Man Walking | 05.05.15
 
The gordita’s a rare enough commodity in Austin’s 500 Tacos marketplace that La Gordita Loca has staked its name and livelihood on the fat little masa pocket. A gordita with eggs, cheese and thick, chewy bacon inside a toasted corn throw pillow is a decent snack here, but with strong tacos on handmade flour tortillas, La Gordita Loca is just the mild-mannered alter-ego for a taco truck with heroic ambitions.
 
The taco: Rajas con queso
Roasted poblano pepper and sweet onions are suspended in melted Monterey jack cheese like exotic flora preserved in amber. A taco for the ages in a fresh, toasted flour tortilla. ($2)
 
 
 El Taco Loco: The whole menu of bistec, chicken and beef fajita, chicharrones, roasted pork, barbacoa and the breakfast pantheon can be made into tacos or gorditas, all at $2 apiece. I’ll stick with the tacos to praise real cheek-meat barbacoa that’s tender and fatty, as well as roast pork with potatoes in a spicy verde sauce. Bistec with potatoes, on the other hand, puts off a day-old stringy vibe and soaks the tortilla with a watery stock.
 Tortillas: Flour tortillas are made by hand, and they’re soft, strong and buttery with the toasted palomino markings of time spent on the grill. Corn tortillas are storebought.
 Salsa: Neither the hot and runny tomato red nor the fiercely hot orange salsa lends anything but the need for more napkins.
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The 500 Tacos Project
 
 
(Photos by Mike Sutter © Fed Man Walking)