500 Tacos: La Fogata

 
 
An Austin taco a day for 2015 — and then some
 
La Fogata
7113 Burnet Road, Austin (map), 512-779-3609
Hours: 8:30am-4pm Mon-Wed; 8:30am-3pm Thu; 8:30am-4pm Fri; 8:30am-3pm Sat
 
By Mike Sutter | © Fed Man Walking | 11.05.15
 
Sitting in the parking lot of that long-abandoned den of urban cowboy debauchery known as the Dallas nightclub, the tiny La Fogata taco trailer has to fight for its right to party. Because urban Austin is catching up fast. The old Hill-Bert’s Burgers next door has been replaced by the Twisted Root Burger chain, and Tacodeli lies in wait just a block away, with fancier tacos at almost twice the price.
 
The taco: Tacos al albañil
A bricklayer’s taco. That’s the origin of the name for this fortified assembly, built with layers of peppery grilled steak with sautéed, glossy green cactus and queso fresco for mortar. It’s finished with onion, cilantro and fresh avocado for a taco both decorative and fortifying enough to withstand whatever kind of work you do. ($2.50)
 
 
 Breakfast tacos: La Fogata serves breakfast all day; it just goes up by a quarter after noon. A simple bean-and-egg taco shows the trailer gets the basics right ($1.50/$1.75 after noon). A migas taco with fresh eggs, long strips of fried tortilla, lots of chunky pico and real melted cheese lets you know they can show off, too. One of the best migas tacos in this series. ($1.75).
 Al pastor and carnitas: With cooked pineapple and sautéed onions, this bright orange al pastor shows love for the style, even if it’s tough love. A carnitas taco has a good mix of roasted fat and fibery lean crisped up on the grill, but it tastes dry and tired. ($2.25 each)
 Tortillas: Basic factory flour and thin, fragile doubled-up white corn tortillas.
 Salsa: Mild tomatillo green salsa packs cilantro in funky herbal abundance, while a watery chile de arbol throws heat with no control.
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The 500 Tacos Project
 
 
(Photos by Mike Sutter © Fed Man Walking)