500 Tacos: King & Country

 
 
A taco a day for 2015 — and then some
 
King & Country
900 Guadalupe St. in Wooldridge Square (map), 512-200-9888, www.kingandcountryfoodco.com
Hours: 8am-4pm Mon-Fri
 
By Mike Sutter | © Fed Man Walking | 05.22.15
 
Wooldridge Park is the Norman Rockwell of taqueria backdrops, with its towering shade trees, manicured lawns and symphony gazebo. Nevermind that the “taqueria” in this scene is a shiny Airstream trailer with the decidedly across-the-pond name of King & Country. Keep Calm and Taco On.
 
The taco: Bacon and eggs
In a gentrified setting, you eat what the landed gentry eats. That means well-cooked and peppered scrambled eggs and thick, crisp bacon cut in bite-size pieces. Add fresh avocado to cool things down, and melted white cheese to hold it together. Simple and filling. ($3 for eggs, bacon and cheese, plus 50 cents for avocado) Note: Taco service stops at 11:30 a.m.
 
 
 Ham and eggs: I wondered why these tacos took longer to cook than the burger I ordered along with them. These potatoes might be why, little golden nuggets crisp outside, soft and starchy inside. The salt and crunch work so well with the sweet twang of grilled onions that the chopped ham and scrambled eggs could almost take the morning off. ($3 for ham, eggs and potatoes, plus 50 cents for sauteéd onions)
 Tortillas: Storebought flour tortillas as stiff as an upper lip.
 Salsa: Chunky roasted green chile salsa reminds us that in Texas country, spicy is king.
 
 
 500 Burgers?: When you drag both King and Country into it, a burger becomes a matter of civic responsibility, honoring the King with an English muffin, and my Country with prime brisket and bacon ground into the same patty. If you appreciate the nuance of good beef still showing blood in the center of a patty seared just for show, you’ll celebrate. If you blanch at the thought of eating bloody rare beef you didn’t grind yourself, this will just look dreadfully undercooked. I’m in that first group, and this is well-seasoned beef that plays richly against crisp lettuce, American cheese and a fat slice of ripe tomato. The onion and housemade pickles promised on the menu are nowhere to be found, and the English muffin makes a squish-and-slide mess of things — little things that keep this from adding up to a $10 trailer value.
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The 500 Tacos Project
 
(Photos by Mike Sutter © Fed Man Walking)