500 Tacos: Glorieta Delicias Hondureñas
An Austin taco a day for 2015 — and then some
Glorieta Delicias Hondureñas
1723 E. Oltorf St. in the Gulf station lot, Austin (map), 512-367-9623
Hours: 1pm-9pm Tue-Sun
By Mike Sutter | © Fed Man Walking | 10.16.15
Two things happen when a trailer like Glorieta Delicias does everything to order: the breading and frying of chicken, pulling dough for tortillas, rolling and frying Honduran tacos, slicing and frying whole plantains. One of those things is that lots of people show up. The other is that it takes awhile for just one person to take care of those people. At Glorieta Delicias, it’s worth whatever wait precedes Honduran food that expands our definitions and appreciation of tacos.
The taco: Tacos Hondureños
As Dallas writer and Taco Trail wanderer José R. Ralat reminds us from time to time, flautas are tacos. Which makes Honduran tacos — which are really more like flautas — tacos as well. With me so far? At Glorieta Delicias, tacos start with chile-roasted shredded chicken that’s rolled into a double layer of fresh, grainy corn tortillas, then fried crisp. Then, like so much of the Honduran pantheon, they’re covered with a buttery cream sauce, shredded cabbage and strong white cheese. Call them flautas, call them enchiladas, call them tacos. Just call them dinner and call them delicious. ($3.50 for an order of two)
► Baleada: I’ve made the case at Antojitos Hondureños and Antojitos Gladis, but it’s a point worth making again: a Honduran baleada is a bean and cheese taco for the more adventurous eater, with red beans instead of refritos, with mantequilla and sharp white cheese that would make Roquefort a floral bouquet by comparison. This trailer goes a step farther, with hard-scrambled eggs and avocado. ($2.50)
► Tortillas: The key to tacos, soft or fried, is a handmade tortilla, and this trailer makes them one at a time, with bakery fluff and tensile strength for flour tortillas that meet the sloppy demands of baleadas and corn tortillas that can endureños the fried crucible of tacos Hondureños.
► Platanos: Here at the Honduran trailer, we want our starch fried to a caramelized maduro finish, we want it sweet and tropical, we want it covered in butter and refried red beans. In other words, we want platanos just like these. ($2.50)
► Pollo con tajadas: Honduras could teach us a thing or two about fried chicken, namely that we don’t have to suit it up for battle. A thin crackle over a nice leg quarter will do. And second, serve it with plantains instead of potatoes, with a caramelized sear to bring out the tropical sweetness. And third? There is no third, because cabbage and vinegar make coleslaw, no matter whose flag is flying over the plate. ($8)
► Salsa: Just a little glass bottle of Yucateco. Move along.
The 500 Tacos Project
(Photos by Mike Sutter © Fed Man Walking)