500 Tacos: Enchiladas Y Mas
A taco a day for 2015 — and then some
Enchiladas Y Mas
Hours: 7am-9pm Tue-Sat, 7am-2pm Sun, closed Mon
By Mike Sutter | © Fed Man Walking | 02.11.15
The taco is the star of this series, even if it’s not always the main attraction of the restaurants in it. Who goes to a place called Enchiladas Y Mas without getting enchiladas? Y mas? I might not have, if being picky were an option in such a comprehensive series. The floor of this dim cavern looks like a bus stop. Lighting one wall like a beer sign is a flytrap speckled to capacity. The main room wears a ragged plastic pennant of stenciled sombreros, and the late lunchtime air carries the smell of a steampan left to boil dry. Better be some good enchiladas. Y mas.
The taco: Crispy beef
Lovers of the Tex-Mex ritual will love the Comida Mexicana dinner at Enchiladas Y Mas. The cool plate comes out first, with guacamole salad and a crispy beef taco. Then comes the one with rice and beans and enchiladas, and the waiter calls out those two magic words: “Hot plate!” (Spanish for “Touch the plate immediately.”) As it is with so many enchilada plates, the taco is just an opening act, something I’d overlook if this weren’t a story about ... tacos. The ground beef is a loose, wet tumble with just a glimmer of onion and chili powder, showered with shredded iceberg, pink tomatoes and streamers of processed cheese. The corn tortilla shell is fried to order, but it’s still a melancholy ambassador for the enchilada glory to come. ($9.75)
► The cool plate: I’ve covered the taco part. The guacamole part is a pasty blob like an avocado version of egg salad from a vending machine.
► The hot plate: The things that wreck a taco —storebought tortillas, gummy processed cheese —make for a fine plate of enchiladas, swimming in burnt chili gravy on a plate with sides of sticky orange rice and spackly refried beans and a shower of sharp white onions.
► Tortilla: The palest, blandest corn and flour tortillas your foodservice dollar can buy.
► Salsa: A choppy blend of tomatoes, peppers and onions that tastes as cranky as I feel in this dank fluorescent space.
The 500 Tacos Project
(Photos by Mike Sutter © Fed Man Walking)