500 Tacos: Bomb Tacos at the White Horse

 

A taco a day for 2015 — and then some
 
Bomb Tacos at the White Horse
500 Comal St. at the White Horse Saloon (map), 512-553-6756,
www.thewhitehorseaustin.com/bomb-tacos
Hours: 6pm-2am daily. Also at: Bar 96, 96 Rainey St.
 
By Mike Sutter | © Fed Man Walking | 03.21.15
 
Drunk food is an exercise in fewer choices and lower expectations. Bomb Tacos — which cut its teeth behind the late Luster Pearl on Rainey St., caters to both. No corn tortillas, just flour. One salsa (hope you like green). And tacos built from premixed tubs, warmed on the flat-top for efficiency, cheapness and defense against alcohol’s dark arts. The White Horse Saloon is the ideal setting, with live blues rock, pool tables and a healthy dose of “whatever,” with cans of Schlitz and PBR for the poseurs and drafts of Austin EastCiders and Oasis Slow Ride for drinkers who know better.
 
The taco: Campechana
Starch, sweetness and grease. The late-night trifecta is in full effect with the campechana taco, a mix of chewy fajita beef and spicy ground chorizo grilled with pineapple and finished with cilantro and onion. ($3)
 
 
 Migas y mas: The cook — who could work a pair of spatulas like a two-pistol gunfighter — cracked one, two, three eggs on a pile of crumbled tortilla chips on the grill. Then came a toss of pico de gallo and clackety-clack spatula dance finished with cheese. This is why we order migas after midnight. Al pastor was a sloppy-sweet mess of pork, red sauce and pineapple. The night’s real trainwreck was a crunchy beef taco that sogged through its shell in minutes, tasting like canned chili with lettuce like shredded expectations. ($3 each)
 Tortillas: Storebought flour with a 30-second ride on the flat-top. Sometimes they have corn, the cook said. But not tonight.
 Salsa: Every color of the rainbow, as long as the rainbow is whirled jalapeño green.
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The 500 Tacos Project
 
 
(Photos by Mike Sutter © Fed Man Walking)