500 Tacos: Bacon
An Austin taco a day for 2015 — and then some
Hours: 11am-9pm Mon-Fri; 9am-9pm Sat; 9am-3pm Sun
By Mike Sutter | © Fed Man Walking | 11.27.15
The House bacon costs an extra buck at Bacon, but when in Bacon, do as the Bacons do. Kevin, Sir Francis, Jon Hamm by association. They make a mean burger here, the Double Grind with beef and bacon. And biscuits with bacon gravy, French toast, little pork fritters called called Hush Piggies, also chicken and waffles. But even though it doesn’t open until lunchtime on weekdays, Bacon makes a respectable all-day breakfast taco seven days a week, packed with three ingredients for a reasonable $2.75. Plus an extra buck if you want the house Kevin. Bacon.
The taco: Bacon, egg and cheese
Being that bacon’s their specialty, Bacon is about choices. Maybe it’s Jamaican jerk or hickory or apple pie spice, and always House, cured at the restaurant. Spend the money; bet the House. Viewed from the air, it’s a regular golden piece of bacon, all striped with fat and lean. From the side, it’s as thick as a ham steak, the lean side all bronzed like a pork chop, the fat side rendered just enough to form a fatty flak jacket. And it carries enough salt and smoke to season fresh scrambled eggs and melted colby jack cheese. In its simplicity — and the wax-paper flour tortilla notwithstanding — this is one of the city’s best breakfast tacos. ($2.75, plus $1 for house bacon)
► Pulled pork: Roasted, shredded, infused with vinegar-sweet barbecue sauce, this is commendable pulled pork. What it’s missing in barky-fatty-flossy texture it makes up for in abundance and flavor, swamping even doubled-up corn tortillas. I ordered avocado and black beans. And while it might be a mere mortal slice of ripe green avocado, it’s a superhero’s cargo of black beans, not so much refried as packed densely together like a spiced black bean burger patty, then blown apart for the good of the taco. ($2.75)
► Chorizo: What Bacon calls chorizo, most people would call puerco asado: roasted, full-fiber nuggets with an aggressive powdered spice. Sausage or not, it’s good in a breakfast taco with french fries and colby-jack. Yes, fries. Because I’m an adult, and I will order taco fries if I want. What are french fries if not skyscraper homefries? And these are fresh, hot and crispy skyscrapers.
► Tortillas: Base-level flour tortillas from El Milagro, stiff as posterboard. The doubled-up yellow corn are better, with pull-apart layers and an antique patina.
► Salsa: There’s a red blender salsa so mild it’s like drinking tomatoes from a can. Bacon’s fast-running salsa verde has solid chile pepper flavor and heat.
The 500 Tacos Project
(Photos by Mike Sutter © Fed Man Walking)