500 Tacos: Amigo’s BBQ Grill
An Austin taco a day for 2015 — and then some
Amigo’s BBQ Grill
Hours: 6am-3pm Mon-Sat
By Mike Sutter | © Fed Man Walking | 11.16.15
A barbecue man whose opinion I respect pointed me in the direction of Amigo’s BBQ Grill. But for John Brotherton — once the golf club-wielding pitman for Hall of Flame and Curly’s Carolina — picadillo is the draw at Amigo’s. After trying it on a fresh flour tortilla, I’m inclined to agree.
The taco: Picadillo
Plain ground beef isn’t picadillo, although a fair number of taco places get away with it. At Amigo’s, picadillo starts with fatty ground beef, then builds suspense with chopped peppers, tomatoes, onions, chili spice and fat little potatoes. It’s as much a stew as a taco filling, and its power to soak through even a top-grade tortilla is its only shortcoming. ($2.99)
► Tortillas: I had a BBQ problem long before 500 Tacos came along, But flour tortillas like these compel me to re-examine my allegiances. They’re rolled out by hand and toasted on the grill for a mosaic of air bubbles, sunspots and translucent windows like Civil War glass. Some of the best floury, dusty, stubborn taco trolleys in this series.
► Chopped brisket: OK, just one bite of barbecue. Twist my arm. Chopped brisket is barbecue’s ambassador to tacos, cleaving together with fat, fiber and lean that grabs the smoke and never lets go. Ask for Amigo’s sorghum-sweet, peppery barbecue sauce to soften things up. It’s not Valentina’s, but it gets the job done. ($2.99)
► Spicy potatoes: Migas get most of the attention at breakfast. For cheese and chips, sure, but mostly for peppers, onions and tomatoes. That’s why the spicy potato taco works so well. That sautéed trinity works even better against the starchy backdrop of Amigo’s homefries, bringing both earth and fire. The wind? That’s between you and your air freshener, pal. ($2.19)
► Breakfast tacos: Amigo’s serves breakfast tacos until noon, with a handful of egg combinations for $2.19. Even better? Potatoes and chorizo with big red spice.
► Salsa: A basic mild blender red.
The 500 Tacos Project
(Photos by Mike Sutter © Fed Man Walking)