100 Austin Burgers: Salt & Time
Salt & Time
Lunch: 11am-3pm Tue-Sat. Brunch: 10am-3pm Sun.
Dinner: 5-10pm Tue-Sat. Butcher shop: 10am-8pm Tue-Sat and 10am-6pm Sun.
By Mike Sutter | © Fed Man Walking | 03.23.16
At a butcher shop where the meat in the market case looks like a diorama and a 12-ounce Angus hanger steak in the adjoining restaurant runs $38, I’m a buyer for a hamburger made from the day’s trimmings, even at $14. Salt & Time has carved out an identity in both worlds, bringing Old World respect for whole-animal butchering to a decidedly New World bar and grill.
► Butcher Burger: It’s not a monster burger by modern carnivoral norms, but it holds a medium-rare sear with steakhouse grace. The dress is spartan — just pickles and mayo on a soft brioche roll. But add a big slice of n’duja Tejano for $3 and the flavor landscape changes dramatically. Salt & Time’s n’duja — a broad category of spreadable salumi — is like a chorizo homage to the shop’s East Side environment, a hot and glossy turbo-boost for a mild-mannered burger. At $14 with fries, plus $1 for deli Swiss cheese and $3 for the n’duja, that’s $18. But it works hard for the money.
► On the side: Imagine if steak fries were cut like big movie-prop french fries and you’d have a picture of the Pee-Wee Hermanesque fries here. The comparison holds true even in the texture, soft and fluffy inside with a golden brown crust that’s fried in beef fat and razor crisp at the mitered edges.
► Wash it down: Salt & Time does wine by the glass and bottle from a small but affordable list, plus 10 or so craft drafts and a long list of bottled beers. From 3-7, get a little glass of cold Reissdorf Kolsch for a buck or cans of Austin Beerworks or Hops & Grain for $3.
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(Photos by Mike Sutter © Fed Man Walking)