100 Austin Burgers: Goodall’s Kitchen
Breakfast: 7-11am Mon-Fri. Brunch: 7am-2:30pm Sat-Sun.
Lunch: 11am-2pm Mon-Fri. Dinner: 5-10pm Sun-Thu and 5-11pm Fri-Sat
By Mike Sutter | © Fed Man Walking | 05.30.16
I’ve explored brunch at Goodall’s at the Hotel Ella, with its easy grace and good skillet hash. But the dining room is equally suited to having a burger and a beer while you admire the art on the walls, a collection of mid-century and contemporary modernist prints by University of Texas faculty and Austin artists.
► Goodall’s Burger: Any good burger starts with the best beef, and Goodall’s has that part down, with a tall, handformed patty cooked to a rosy medium. But the differences are in the details, and the key detail here is a bacon-onion marmalade that delivers smoke, sweetness and a wink of lush excess. It plays well with thick cheddar and a bun seared with steakhouse quadrillage. And because this is a nice hotel, there’s frisée. We promise not to tell if you don’t. ($16 with fries; available for every service except breakfast)
► On the side: Goodall’s handcut fries are among the best in this series, ideally crisp outside and fluffy inside, with salt like snowfall in a Tarantino freeze frame.
► Wash it down: Goodall’s leaves room for the high life with Veuve and Dom, Trimbach Cuvee Emile riesling and Bouchard pinot. For the most of us, there’s Sokol Blosser and Laroche by the glass or taps of craft beer from Live Oak and Austin Beerworks. The smart money’s on the cocktail list, with a respectable Blunderbuss of gin and prosecco or this: the Goodall’s Old Fashioned. Knob Creek bourbon holds down the center, then Goodall’s steps in, lightly, with sugar, orange peel, a Luxardo cherry and a proper single ice cube. Because when bourbon dresses up, it’s best to keep it coat, tie and pocket square ($12).
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(Photos by Mike Sutter © Fed Man Walking)